
I’ll miss the excitement that I felt as we cast off from Mumbai, beginning our sail that would last eight days and cover 280 nautical miles. ‘This is it,’ I said to myself, as the main sail came up, remembering the six months of intense preparation – working out, swimming, keeping fit, eating heavy duty breakfasts, reading books on sailing and navigation, designing the special seat that would be used on the boat, and allaying Mom’s fears about the journey (No mom, I don’t think I need to take along a deep-sea diver for safety).
We were finally on the sea, on a heading of two-two-zero out of Mumbai harbour. The light was fading fast, and when I looked back, I could see a clutch of friends and relatives on the shore waving at us in the twilight, holding flags that said Bon Voyage, though I couldn’t read them from this distance. Moments earlier, Adi Godrej had looked at me as he had come to the end of his short speech at the flag-off ceremony, and had said, ‘Enjoy the sail, Salil.’ I would remember his words many times, especially when we were stuck in the sea with no breeze, waiting under the hot sun for hours for the wind to pick up.
I’ll miss that spot on the sea where I woke up the first morning. I pulled myself up from the floor of the boat on to the thwart. I rubbed my eyes and looked around and all I could see was this soft morning shade, a silvery pink. Miles and miles of it. No land, no topography, no sound, no birds, just a curvy gelatinous sea and our boat moving up and down on the silvery pink and silence, broken by the tinkle of water against the hull of the boat.
I’ll miss every evening’s routine, a little after sunset, when Umaji would open his dry sack and start wearing his cap and jacket, and tell us to dress warmly before we got cold. I’ll miss him radioing Chaitanya on the boat behind, asking him to make sure everyone was dressed warmly on his boat. In fact, I’ll miss all the radio conversations. ‘Come in Chitanya … Chaitanya come in …’ And I’ll miss that first night when we lost radio contact and kept wondering where Chaitanya’s boat was, till he crept up on us silently in the morning.
I’ll miss the suspense of the nights. The inky seas, the constant search for a reference point in the sky. Finding a star that was convenient to steer by. Flashing the torch from time to time on the compass kept along side, correcting the course of the boat till the arrow pointing north aligned itself to the red mark on the compass, then flashing the torchlight on the sail to warn others of our presence, and finally a quick look at the tell-tales to see what the wind was doing. And when there was nothing else to do, asking someone (usually Umaji) questions like, ‘What’s our speed right now?’ or, ‘How many nautical miles from shore?’ or, ‘What’s our average so far?’ Then he’d consult the GPS and provide the requested information.
I’ll miss the wait for the moon to set, so we could see clearly in the dark. I’ll miss looking up at the countless stars and the sound of the center-plate going dug-dug, dug-dug right next to my ear, as I tried to find a comfortable posture to sleep in. And I’ll miss the lifejacket under my head for a pillow.
I’ll miss all the planning that we did every day before we set sail – we head out two-four-zero for an hour and then we turn to one-eight-zero till we see the lighthouse, when we turn to one-six-zero; when we see the port we’ll jibe and a couple of tacks should take us into the jetty; we’ll be coming into the port from the northwest, so the approach should be easier, but we’ll have to go around this headland and tack and finally luff up to the jetty…

I’ll miss the sparrow that came and sat on our boat once, all exhausted, her beak wide open and panic in her eyes. I threw a slice of orange towards her but the bird just looked at it and finally flew off when she saw the hills. I’ll miss the mysterious butterflies that were out in the sea and the phosphorescence that I saw one night, along the main sail sheet that was hanging in the water.
And of course, I’ll miss the wedding anniversary we had on the sea. I’d finished my shift on the tiller and was resting on the floor of the boat. It would soon be time for me to take the tiller again. When it was past twelve, I heard my cousin on the radio with Chaitanya:
‘Come in Chaitanya … Chaitanya do you read me?’
‘I hear you, over.’
‘Is Monika awake? Over.’
‘Monika was on the deck, but she has just gone into the cabin to sleep, over.’
‘When she comes out, will you wish her a happy anniversary, over.’
‘Roger … copy that … er … will you do the same with Salil, please, over.’
‘Will do … over and out.’
Then in the morning they got the two boats together, so Monika could be transferred to my boat and we could be together on our anniversary.
I’ll miss the times around lunch hour in the boat when the conversation always turned to food as we sucked on some oranges – remember the prawn curry at Zia’s in Mumbai, or the biryani at Deogadh? The poha at Ratnagiri was something else, wasn’t it? Where exactly is the Lemon Tree restaurant in Aguada? And I’ll miss that incredible sip of Thums Up when we reached shore in the afternoon at Ratnagiri. The bottle was put to the lips and when it came down the entire contents had disappeared in one smooth gulp.
I’ll miss the dolphins, the beaches and the cliffs we saw along the coast. The windmills, the radio towers, the bridges over creeks, and the eerie dark shadows of the Vengurla rocks that we passed at night. I’ll miss the interminable wait for the three flashes of the Aguada lighthouse when we were well past Vengurla. The light was supposed to be visible 27 nautical miles away, but we never did see it because of the haze. And I’ll miss the time when we were suddenly surrounded by fishing nets. We raised the center-plate up a little so the nets wouldn’t get caught and meandered our way out.
I’ll also miss the rigging of the boat, the pulling of halyards, the unfurling of sails, inserting the sail batons, raising the anchor, lowering the centre-plate, putting in the rudder and the tiller, and UC calling out to me, ‘I’m casting off … have you planned your course, Salil?’ And as we entered a port, UC always telling me, ‘Be aware of the wind.’
I’ll miss sitting under the blazing sun, doing nothing, waiting for some breeze, wondering what had made me take up this sail. If we were lucky we’d see a sea snake or two, or a shoal of surface fish going past the boat, or a barracuda zipping over the water on its tail. Then after hours of nothing, we’d eventually see the wind on the water, and watch it make its way towards us. I won’t forget Umaji saying to me, ‘When you start off again, you’ll forget all the waiting, as if it hadn’t happened. That’s the great thing about sailing.’
I’ll miss riding the big waves. The fine art of sliding the boat down a swell to gather speed and then bringing it back on course. I’ll also miss our efforts to use every scrap of wind, every gust on the water, avoiding the holes in the wind.
I’ll miss the time when Monika and Shaunik decided to jump into the sea, when we were within striking distance of Goa. They were to be picked up by Chaitanya’s boat. They kept asking me to get into the water, but I declined.

And I’ll miss the time when we finally anchored off the Cidade beach. A few friends had sailed out to meet us. All of us on the boat shook hands and hugged each other, and suddenly there was a round of clapping on boats all around us. It lasted for about thirty seconds, but I’ll remember it for a lifetime.
I also understand now, Umaji's mysterious question, ‘Doing this is so much better than not doing this, isn’t it?’ But now, it's time to go home and miss things.
Picture credits: Pankaj Misra
(Remembering the Godrej Brighter Horizons Sail, which Umaji Chowgule, Monika, Shaunik, Chaitanya Chowgule, I and a host of others undertook from Mumbai to Goa. The idea was to campaign for access for disabled persons in India. For coverage of the sail, please google it.)



















































































I am happy that our garden is a safe sanctuary to the girgits. They have, in fact, been an important part of our garden, keeping the insects in check. The first year, there were just a few girgits – perhaps three at most. But they have proliferated and now, depending on the season, the garden sometimes feels like a highway for these busy-bodies. Their numbers dwindle in the monsoons and they almost disappear for a while, only to make a comeback the next year in greater strength.
What I like most about them is the way their eyes follow us. Both their eyes move separately and they can focus on two different objects simultaneously. If they want depth percecption they focus with both their eyes on the same object. As we move around the garden, I can see their eyes shift, closely following our actions. I am overcome with this urge to spin suddenly, wave a wand and cry out, ‘Calotes versicolor!’ I don’t know what the spell will do to them, but these magical creatures have held me spellbound for many an hour. 





